Source: Monterey Mexican Food, Prestons

When I arrived in Sydney to live, the first 3 weeks as a resident were completely and utterly unlike the 3 weeks I’d spent here as a tourist 8 months earlier.  I’ll chronicle my various forms of culture shock somewhere else, perhaps.  The most profound (for me anyway) changes were to be found in the grocery store.  I was surprised that most grocers didn’t stock dry beans, with the exception of lentils sometimes in the Indian section.  No dry beans equals no pinto beans.  And, when I *did* find dried beans at some specialty shops, there were *still* no pinto beans.  There is an imposter here in Australia called the Berlotti bean, which looks quite like a pinto, but has a sweet taste which renders it unattractive for savory borracho beans or refrijoles.

Yay Internet to the rescue!

Google promptly served up montereyfoods.com.au when I quested for pinto beans.  The prices aren’t cheap, but the stuff is genuine and fresh.  I can’t help but be amused that simple Mexican cuisine, which is designed from the ground up to be *very* economical, is quite expensive to source.

Monterey did a great job packing and shipping the items; the box arrived quickly and was packed full of goodies.  So far, the dried chiles from Monterey are my favorites in Australia.  And my favorite Mexican canned foods  are La Costeña brand, which are well-represented in the stock.

Every couple of months, Monterey opens their warehouse in Prestons, NSW to the public. We took a drive out there one Sunday and arrived just as they were opening up.
View Map

As we browsed through the stacks of delicious goodies, we talked to the proprietor about the costs to import Mexican stuff to Australia.  The customs and quarantine inspections are quite arduous, and they tend to hold up shipments as they inspect or fumigate vegetable matter, passing the costs of doing so on to the shipper. He’s optimistic about getting a greater variety of items, and is increasing the variety of his stock with each container.  I asked about getting corn husks for tamales, either sourced here or from Evil America, and he said he’d gotten a fair number of requests for these.

We ended up with a couple bags of dried chiles, some salsas and canned delicacies, and a bag of dried pinto beans.  Totalled about $50.  Sigh.

At least it was there!  They’re having another open warehouse in early February.  We’ll probably go again!

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Source: Fiji Market, Newtown

About half a block away, you start to smell the cardamom. View Map

Fiji Market is mostly Indian/Pakistani, but God bless ’em, in a corner on the right side of the store they’ve got a shelf of Mexican goodies that blows away the sad, sad “Old El Paso” rack at the major grocers.

The stock varies quite a bit.  But you can guarantee a #10 can of tomatillos, achiote paste (and annato seed, cheaper than Herbie’s), some La Costeña, Herdez and Goya canned products, and Maseca masa harina (corn tortilla & tamale mix).

I’ve purchased dried pinto beans and dried black beans from the quite large selection of dried beans (in kilos and in bulk) but these come and go.   I tried to talk to the proprietors over the phone to check the stock before I went over there, but it must have been a bad day, because we sort of failed to clamber over a language barrier.  Usually the staff is very helpful and attentive and articulate, I may have had a wrong number, possibly.

There’s a cooler with vegetables just to the left of the entrance and sometimes you can find habañeros here.  Nice.

They also stock corn oil, which is my preference for Mexican rice and a few other dishes.

The place is JAM PACKED full of crazy goodies.  I mean, floor to ceiling.  It’s worth an extended visit just to scope out all the craziness.

Fiji Market Bazaar

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Tex-Mex vs. Oz-Mex vs. Mex-Mex

Some Sydney restaurants focus on what in Texas we called “Interior Mexican” cuisine.  Which is fine.  Love it!!! But ever since Diana Kennedy started poo-pooing Tex-Mex and Cal-Mex and border variants as inferior to “authentic” Mexican food, a lot of places are following suit and talking down about “Americanised” dishes.

I like Tex-Mex, mostly, but I don’t like Tex-Mex with melted cheese.  I don’t like ground beef in tacos.  I don’t like fried tortilla shells and nachos.  I’m nuts about flavours from Oaxaca and Yucatan, but don’t think of them as more “authentic” than anything else.

Hey, if you’re in Sydney, Australia and you’re cooking Mexican food, it’s “Australianised”. You can’t help it, it’s hard or impossible to get the same ingredients and flavors, and you’re going to have to adapt to the local palate.  This is normal and natural and how cuisine evolves.  Otherwise we should get picky about Spanish influences in Mexican food, or heck, Mixtec influences in Aztec food!

I love regional variations on Mexican food. Except Cal-Mex, that sucks.  And the unfortunate “Southwest Cuisine” that was rampant in the 80’s.  And Mexican food in New York City.

But the rest is great.  All of it.  Viva la diferencia!!

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Chillies, Chiles

Bullhorn (g/r), Wax, "Green", Birdseye

The Usual Sydney Suspects: Bullhorn (green/red), "Yellow", "Green", Birdseye

I am going to have to call them chiles, sorry.  I’m doing favourite, programme, colour etc the Oz way, but CHILLI, I can’t do.

I knew I was in trouble on arrival in Australia when the most common chile available in the grocery stores was just called “Green”.  They’re all green! (at some point)

And here’s the rub: it’s very hard to find fresh chiles of the proper sort in Sydney.  If there are some boutique growers or gardeners with some to spare, please shout out.  The fresh chiles there are, pictured above, are not so great in Mexican food.  The Bullhorn is the largest, fleshiest chile, but is quite sweet.  The Yellow pepper is also a sweet pepper, and additionally isn’t suitable for roasting.  The “green” chile and birdseye chiles that are commonly available are best in Asian dishes.

Intermittently you can find jalapeños, and this is going to be your staple chile (chilli) for cooking.

As mentioned in the Doña salsa recipe, the heat in commonly-available jalapeños in Sydney varies quite radically.  That’s fine, because when you find mild ones, these become your replacements for milder chiles such as Anaheim, New Mexico, and Poblano chiles. Flavor-wise – these mild jalapeños give a good chile flavor without adding a sweet taste or overpowering heat.

In Texas jalapeños became a little passe  for some folks and many became fans of the saucy little serrano.  But I’m a jalapeño man.  At least I am now.

Sourcing Jalapenos
Coles and Woolies sometimes have them in Sydney’s Inner West.  I find the Woolworth’s by Town Square in the CBD almost always has them.  Paddy’s Markets in Chinatown *sometimes* has them, (and sometimes habañeros if the gods are smiling). If I’m desperate I’ll drive out to Paddy’s Markets in Flemington and wander the aisles until someone has them.  I’m preparing a Flemington post and I’ll try to make a map to guide you, because that place is HUGE.

I recently bought some chile seeds from http://www.fireworksfoods.com.au/ and am trying to grow my own.  I missed Spring, but what the heck.

Preserving Jalapeños
Given the uncertain availability of these lil babies, I’ve taken to preserving them in a couple different ways so I can cook when they’re not in the shops.

1. Freezing
It actually works to toss a bunch of fresh jalapeños into a ziplock bag and drop them in the freezer.  When thawed, they’ll be a little soggy, maybe not the best for a crisp fresh garnish or pico de gallo, but they’ll blend up fine into a salsa or stew.

2. Pickling
I miss savory dill pickles (common pickles in Sydney grocers are usually sweet) and have been learning how to pickle this last year.  Here’s the ultimate pickling liquid: 1 cup vinegar, 6 cups water, 1/3 cup salt.  (scale as necessary).  When I pickle jalapeños I usually cut them into nacho slices and toss in some crinkle-cut carrot discs and a few cloves of garlic.  I’ll post a recipe eventually. You’ll need to be up for water-bath canning.

If you haven't done this, you should. Smells incredible.

3. Roasting, then freezing
This is the bomb.  Roast the chiles on a grill or in a baking pan in the oven, then either a) immediately put them in a plastic bag and freeze them.  b) remove the blistered skins and seeds and them freeze them c) remove the skins and seeds, puree them, and freeze them. I try to freeze them in very small plastic bags or containers, so I don’t have to unthaw a bunch of them just to use a couple.

The Missing Chiles
In August each year,  Hatch, New Mexico inundates the southwestern United States with the most amazing green chiles in the world.  These are called New Mexican chiles in the stores.  These are about the same size, perhaps a little smaller and flatter, than the Bullhorn chiles available in Oz.

A similar chile is the Anaheim chile, which is often quite mild.  I add these to stewing chickens, salsa verdes, or chili.

A tiny alternative to jalapenos is the Serrano, a dainty pepper that packs a wallop.  Similar to the birdseye chilis in Oz, but green, and slightly less acidic.

Poblanos are larger and tougher, they become the hardy Ancho chile when dried.

Poblanos. $1.49 a pound in Austin! Let's go!!!

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Recipe: Green Tomato Salsa

This is a more Australia-friendly alternative to the Tomatillo salsa recipe.  If you can’t get the real deal, this suffices.  Or you can go out and buy a jar of salsa verdes at Harris Farms.

Ingredients

  • 1 dozen small Green Tomatoes
  • 4 Jalapenos (or to taste) stems removed
  • Salt
  • Lime and/or lemon

Some Instructions

This is what you make when you can’t get Tomatillos.

I get smallish green tomatoes all about the same size, a centimeter or so in diameter bigger than a ping-pong ball.

  1. Roast the tomatoes and jalepenos on a baking pan at 225 Celsius.  (You’ll want a lip on the pan to prevent liquid spills in your oven.) Pull the jalapenos out when they start to wilt.  I let the green tomatoes go until they start to brown, then flip them over and go another 20 minutes.  Last time they went almost an hour.  You don’t want them getting *really* brown, just a tint.  When raw, they are quite hard, after cooking they should be pliable.
  2. Let the grilled vegetables cool somewhat, then toss them in a food processor with the salt.  Whizz em around until they turn into salsa.
  3. Chill.  After chilling, squeeze a little fresh lime into your salsa.  This helps recapture some of the citrusy brightness that Tomatillos have (and green tomatoes don’t).

This makes a good dip for chips, and also is great on chicken enchiladas.

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Mayan Art

I love this drawing from the Codex Fejérváry-Mayer.  I traced it in illustrator to avoid copyright issues.

image copyright 2010 jay rogers

News Flash! You can now buy this as a t-shirt (no markup).

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Recipe: Salsa Doña

Jalapeño Sauce

Australia Note – this is entirely doable in Oz.  The main problem I find is that Coles and Woolworth’s are unable to keep jalapeños in stock (Woolie’s is slightly more reliable). The secondary problem is that pepper heat varies wildly in Australian jalapeños.  If you find a bunch of mild jalapeños, roast them and freeze them and later pretend they are anaheim or poblanos.

This recipe was developed a few years ago in Austin and originally appeared on my lame-ass website http://www.jaybones.com/recipes

For Roasting:
4 Large fleshy Jalapeno peppers

Other Ingredients
1 clove garlic
1/4 cup vegetable oil
coarse sea salt, to taste

This sauce is inspired by the Doña sauce at Tacodeli on Spyglass Lane in South Austin. The food at tacodeli is great, but it’s really just an excuse to eat Doña sauce. I did a little research on the web and found some recipes that got close to this wonderful, rich and spicy pepper sauce, and just kept at it until I got something I like. It’s not exactly Doña, but I like it as much, and vive le difference!

As always, wash and rinse the vegetables. Don’t start me on my dystopian view of the future of our foodchain.

OK, this is the trick. I’ve been roasting vegetables in my lame electric oven for a while, and it will do the trick, but the roasting happens unevenly, and the flavor is pretty neutral.

Roasting on the charcoal grill is ideal, but that takes forever. My gas grill was killed by Lucy the Crazy Dog, who chewed through its hoses one summer day.

The point is that you need flame to really blister the skin off of peppers. I saw the proprietor of Boggy Creek Farm roast chiles this way, and I’ve had a hankering to do it ever since:

Enter The Propane Torch:

Yes, you can still use your gas grill, or charcoal grill, or broiler, to roast chiles in your time-honored and preferred fashion. But you just can’t beat this for thrills. Also, if the Alien comes to your house, you can scare it out of your ventilation ducts with this baby.

Next, into the ziploc to steam until they cool, as always.

Then, wearing gloves, as always when handling peppers, just rinse them and rub the blackened skin off.

After, and Before…

Next, halve and seed the peppers. These are all the ingredients there are!

Pop everything into the blender and let ‘er rip. Put the garlic clove in first. I start with a couple of tablespoons of oil and drizzle it in until the blender has enough liquid to process. Don’t get it too runny. Add some salt, to taste. Less than a half-teaspoon for this lot, probably.

Mmmm!

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Review: Baja Cantina, Glebe

If you know me, you know my general impression of Mexican restaurants in Sydney.  So it’s with a little reluctance that I start restaurant reviews, because I don’t just want to set up a cranky series of whinging restaurant posts.  However, there are some bright spots on the Sydney scene, so to be fair and balanced I guess I should just plunge on in.

I’m going to be judging restaurants the same way I did in Austin, using the salsa and the fajitas as a baseline.  If a companion gets some other dish at dinner (and gives me a portion!) I’ll describe that, but if I’m out alone and don’t think I’ll get by the joint again, these two dishes are going to be my barometer of Mexican goodness.  I’m really not going to go into the whole Tex-Mex vs. Mexican thing too much.  That’s just quibbling.  So whether I call them fajitas or carne asada or tampiquena, I’ll at the very least be sampling these two items consistently.

I went to Baja Cantina just at sundown on a Sunday, and after a short wait they took me to the back patio seating area.  Once the sun went down this area became quite dark and gloomy.  I’d go for some tacky christmas lights rather than the 2 or 3 scattered fluorescent tubes.

Once seated, my order was taken within about 5 minutes, and some chips and salsa appeared about 15 minutes later.  My food arrived about 40 minutes after I sat down.

The tomato salsa was sweet and vinegary, seasoned with pickled jalapenos.  I thought I tasted commercial (canned) tomato sauce, diced freshed tomatoes, and onion.  I was pretty hungry and I finished it off.  It was bright and had a decent spice kick, but didn’t knock my socks off.  The chips were quite thick, and seemed homemade.  They were *crunchy* rather than *crispy*, which made for an interesting textural experience.  I think I prefer a thinner chip.

When the fajitas arrived on their sizzling skillet I was famished.  I tried to take a picture of the dish, but my iphone’s weak little flash couldn’t combat the dark gloom, and the photos came out kind of scary-looking.  Sorry about that.  The beans were quite salty and a little tired, perhaps from steam table fatigue.  The mexican rice had a not unpleasant bitter flavor to it and I felt it was a pretty passable effort.  The meat was a quite chewy cut.  I went round and round whether it was skirt steak (the traditional fajita cut) but ultimately couldn’t decide.  The marinade was decidedly unassertive, didn’t blow me away.  Overall the extreme chewiness and the lack of a strong flavour earned them a C score.   The assembled fajita taco, with guacamole, salsa, and some lettuce, was generally pleasant – it scratched the itch, but I couldn’t escape the feeling that the flavours were a little off, they didn’t gel like a well-marinated, well-cooked steak and utterly fresh condiments can.

I had to ask twice for corn tortillas, and when they arrived, they were cold and crumbly-cardboardy – clearly someone in the kitchen didn’t understand corn tortillas – they should be served hot, pliable, and melt-in-your-mouth.

I paid my bill and wandered home back down Glebe Point Road, past the Flying Fajita Sistas joint, which I will review soon.  My friend Audra gave me a great recommendation for a place in Pyrmont, which I think I’ll review next, because I want to have some good reviews in here too!

Posted in Restaurants, Reviews | 4 Comments

Recipe: Salsa Verdes (Roasted Tomatillo Salsa)

Salsa Verdes
(Roasted Tomatillo Salsa)

Note for Australia: If there *were* any tomatillos on this continent this year, I have reports that they’ve been wiped out in the Queensland flooding. So yeah, this recipe calls for a fair amount of unobtainium.  Please see Green Tomato Salsa for an Australian Equivalent. 

For Roasting:
2.5 lbs tomatillos (about 30)
3 fresh anaheim peppers
2 fresh poblano peppers
2 medium tomatoes

Fresh Ingredients:
1/3 cup onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
8 green onions, rinsed well, removing limp shoots, and sliced very thin
Jalapenos and/or Serranos (optional)
Salt, to taste

The tomatillos should be firm and fresh. Try to get them all about the same size: (ping-pong-ball-sized works for me) so they’ll cook evenly. When you peel the papery covering off, the tomatillos are often sticky from sap, so I just put them and the fresh peppers and tomatoes in some warm water with a little detergent and give them a good bath.

Put the clean and dry tomatillos and tomatoes on a baking sheet with a lip to keep liquids from running off into your oven. I spritz the peppers with a little cooking spray to help the pepper skins conduct heat and get good and hot. Roast everything at 400 degrees for 30 – 40 minutes, until the tomatillos start browning on top. At that point, pull out the tomatillos, put the oven on broil, and put the peppers and tomatoes back in. You need to stick around for this part: When the skins start getting really black, flip the tomatoes or peppers. When a particular item is blackened on both sides, pull it out immediately. Drop the peppers, still hot, into a ziplock bag to steam. When everythings’ blackened, turn off the broiler. You’re through cooking.

Remove any blackened skin from the tomatoes and put them and the roasted tomatillos, in batches if you have to, through a blender until the liquid is smooth and not chunky. Empty the pureed tomatillo mixture into a mixing bowl. When the peppers have cooled in their ziplock, put on some rubber gloves and peel the cellophane-like skins off the peppers. Rinse the stems and seeds out under running water. Pulse the pepper flesh a few times in the blender until this is also a puree, and stir it into the tomatillo/tomato mixture.

Add the chopped onion, green onion, and garlic to the mixture, and about a tsp of salt. I added some chopped serranos one time but it was pretty hot, so I didn’t add them last time. If you are a pepper head go ahead and knock yourself out. Chill. Serve.

This is my own recipe, but its spiritual ancestor is the green salsa at Trudy’s in Austin.

P.S. you could probably make this with canned tomatillos and chiles and save about 75% of the time, but it wouldn’t be as good.


All the ingredients together. So pretty!


Tomatillos are strange and beautiful.


I wash *everything* these days. Watch out for bird flu! (Make sure you rinse well!)


Ready for roasting. The peppers are misted with cooking spray.


Just out of the oven, just a little browned on top. I love the change in hue after roasting.


These guys got broiled to heck. I put them in a ziplock right after this to steam them so the skins come off easy. Use gloves when handling peppers.


Before and After.


The tomato/tomatillo puree, ready for the chopped ingredients


Chopping is fun!

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Cookbook Review: The Texas Provincial Kitchen

The Texas Provincial KitchenIn 2001, I was starting to cook more seriously, which meant more gadgets, of course. I was looking for a flat, cast-iron comal or griddle, and the traditional Mexican food grinder made of hollowed-out lava rock, the molcajete.

I found a lady’s site in McAllen Texas which was prepared to sell me the molcajete, but as it was solid rock, the shipping costs were more expensive than the molcajete itself!  I sent an email to the webmaster of the site, and that’s how I *virtually* met Melissa Guerra.

She turned out to be garrulous, friendly, and informative, and told me to cross the border if I really wanted to get a good molcajete for a nice price.  We had an irregular email exchange for a year or more.  And her first cookbook is much like Melissa herself: hilarious, chatty, and chock full of good info.

I left my copy in the USA when I moved to Australia, like an idiot, and so immediately had to purchase another and get it shipped across the Pacific.  It looks to be self-published, it’s not glossy or overly self-concerned – it’s just page after page of accessible, practical recipes.  She approaches each topic like a craftsman, explaining how trial-and-error led to the best trick for success with the recipes, and there are plenty of sidebars and callouts for special topics.  The dishes are border Texan… you’ll find Mexican traditional dishes alongside grilled quail, chicken-fried steak, and cornbread.

But the Mexican dishes are my favorites: I use both Melissa’s corn and flour tortilla recipes all the time, her Mexican rice recipe is a staple, and have made the achiote chicken and the Huachinango a la Veracruzana (Snapper Veracruz).

melissaguerra.comMelissa doesn’t ship overseas, but her website at http://www.melissaguerra.com is full of information and a funny, chatty blog from Melissa, which stays pretty current.

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