Recipe: Texas Chili

  • 1.5 kilos Top Chuck Roast (I used an oyster blade roast) , cut into 1.5cm cubes
  • vegetable oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 anaheim pepper, chopped fine (1 Jalapeno and 1 green Bullhorn chilli)
  • 3 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 5 Tbsp Real Chilli Powder
  • 1 Negro Modelo or dark Mexican beer (you want a malty dark beer)
  • 3 serrano chiles, whole (sorry, sub 1 or 2 jalapenos, halved)
  • 1 tsp oregano (Mexican oregano if you have it)
  • 1 tsp cumin
  • 1 small can diced Hatch green chiles, drained (3 diced fresh jalapenos, seeds removed)
  • 1 can beef broth
  • 1 can tomato sauce (unflavored)
  • 1/3 – 1/2 cup masa harina (corn flour)

I found a oyster blade roast at Glenmore Meats, but Courtney uses chuck and that worked beautifully.  At any rate, this is a flavorful cut that’s not too lean, and good for chili meat.  We’re going to cube it, cutting out as much fat and well, anything that’s not meat.

Heat some of the oil in heavy dutch oven (cast iron rocks!), brown cubed meat, drain fat and return to stove on low heat.  I actually do this in small batches so that the accumulated liquid doesn’t braise the meat and keep it from browning.  I pour off the liquid so the meat browns quickly.

Heat oil in heavy skillet, sautee onions and anaheim (or whatever) pepper 5 minutes, add garlic and sautee 1 minute more.  Add to meat in dutch oven.

Stir tomato sauce into the meat mixture in the dutch oven, bring heat up to medium low. Add 2 tsp oregano (mexican oregano if you have it) and 2 tsp cumin to meat mixture. Add green chiles (or whatever you have that’s not a sweet capsicum) to meat mixture.

Put the skillet back on stove.  Pour beer into the skillet, bring heat up to medium. Add 3 whole serranos (or whatever) and the chilli powder to beer.  Stir occasionally and bring slowly to boil.

Stir beef broth into meat mixture.  Now stir boiled beer/chili liquid to meat mixture and let cook for a while.  Add masa and thicken to taste. bring chili to boil.

Yummy.

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Recipe: Black Beans

Ingredients
1 K black beans  (i get ’em at Fiji Market in Newtown for cheap)
3 medium-to-small onions
2 jalapeno peppers, stem removed (Woolies usually)
6-7 cloves garlic
salt
Instructions
1. Soak the black beans 8 hours or overnight.  Discard liquid.
2. Dump ’em in a crock pot: I have the largest crockpot I could find at K-Mart that wasn’t hideous.
3. Put the onions, peppers, and peeled garlic cloves into the food processeor.  Chop fine.
4. Dump this in the crock pot.  Add salt. (somewhere between a tsp and a T, depending on mood and blood pressure)
5. Fill the rest of the way with water.  You want a lot of water: (see 2)
6. Cook for 4 hours, tasting occasionally. If they’re not done, cook longer.
You want them not tough or mealy, but almost creamy.  They can overcook and get mushy.  There’s no set time for this- it really depends on the freshness of the beans, which is varies wildly.
Sometimes I chop a tomato with the other stuff, but not every time.
The peppers usually cook out and get mild, but you can start with 1, or seed them, if you’re cautious. If you handle them, wear rubber/latex gloves.
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Review: Agave Mexican Restaurant, Surry Hills

Props to Agave for being the first restaurant we’ve reviewed for Oz-mex.com that’s been bright enough to actually see what you are eating.  Izote and Baja Cantina (I usually get seated in the back patio) both serve in gloomy spaces that rob the food of visual appeal.

Queso Fundido, with the Tacos al Pastor in the background.

Agave is in a nice space on Crown Street in Surry Hills.  We were seated right away and served with some tostadas (chips) and a pair of salsas.  The green was very interesting, a spicy citrusy green with a strong vinegar base.  Vinegar flavors typically, but not always, indicate that the acid content is being pumped up for a canned product, so perhaps they aren’t making salsa in house.  The red was a chipotle-based salsa, which I ignored because for some reason the smoke/jalapeño flavor of chipotle has never appealed to me (for some reason it makes me think of Chef Boy-ar-Dee)

We had been running around all day with only a light lunch, so we splurged on a queso fundido with the chips.  It scored well, – everything was in the right proportion and seemed quite fresh,  and I scooped out a lump of chorizo with interest, hoping to find something familiar, but it was the Portuguese style common in Australia.

Tacos Asada (beef fajitas, shhh!) - very tasty

Again with the fajitas (called tacos asadas, in the interior Mexican fashion).  These were my favorite so far – simple strips of skirt (maybe flank) steak with a light marinade, and no clammy sauce.  Served with a nice gaucamole (fresh and limy) and pico de gallo.  They were tender enough to get through my taco without doing the clenched-teeth-fajita-mouth-wiggle necessary to take a bite of rubbery, tough fajita meat.  So thanks, Agave!

The menu is not extensive, which is fine – I’m a big fan of choosing to do fewer things well. It consists of 15-20 different entrees (appetizers) – noshes like stuffed peppers, flautas, quesadillas, and other delicacies, followed by a half-dozen mains covering beef, pork, chicken and seafood.

Intrigued by some other things we didn’t get to try, we’ll be back!

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Recipe: Breakfast Tacos

Some people call them Breakfast Burritos.

To me, a Burrito is something made in a large flour tortilla that’s at last 9 or 10 inches (25-30cm) across, and rolled up into something quite thick.  It can be hand-held, but in the Tex-Mex restaurant where I ran the night crew in the early 90’s, it was served on a plate with sauce and melted cheese on top.  (Well, everything in that restaurant was served with sauce and melted cheese on top, so that’s not saying much).

A taco can be made in a corn (crispy or soft) or flour tortilla, and these are usually around 6 inches (15 cm).  If I have my druthers, I’ll take my tacos in freshly-made corn tortillas, ones that have never seen the inside of a plastic bag.  But I’d say that Breakfast Tacos are almost always, always flour tortillas.

It seems that Breakfast Tacos As An Institution may be more of an Austin thing than I thought.  A minimal amount of googling brought up more Austin-Breakfast Taco connections than I expected.

If you haven’ t discovered filmmaker Robert Rodriguez’s 10 Minute Cooking School extras on DVDs of his movies, you need to.  Check YouTube for Sin City Breakfast Tacos.  Mmmmm.

So what would happen is that at work, someone would bring in 3 or 4 white paper bags full of breakfast tacos wrapped in foodservice foil.  The cheese would have melted, and the warmth was still there, but starting to dissipate, and you’d pry them open and pour little containers of salsa or pico de gallo on them and then wrap them up again.

The basic ingredients were

  • Potato
  • Cheese
  • Egg
  • Refried Bean
  • Sausage
  • Bacon
  • Migas
  • Chorizo
  • Avocado

In some mixture.  But almost never more than 2 or 3 ingredients, and the third ingredient, if present, had to be cheese.

The most popular one was always potato-egg-cheese.

Potato Egg & Cheese Breakfast Tacos

1 small potato, cut into 1cm cubes (I never peel them)
1/2 T oil
3 eggs
grated cheddar (and/or Monterey Jack, not easy to find in Oz)
salt, pepper
some flour tortillas

1. Prep the potato.  If I have time I’ll boil the potato cubes just until they start to get tender, then drain and finish in the skillet.  If I’m lazy I’ll just go straight to the skillet.
2. Cook the potato cubes in a skillet, over medium heat, yes, in the oil.  Sprinkle salt and pepper to taste. You don’t really want to get them brown and/or crispy, just done almost like a chip (french fry).  Remove from the skillet.
3. Crack the eggs into the skillet and break the yolks (if you’re industrious you can blend the eggs in a bowl with a fork and then put in the skillet, but end result is close enough not to matter.  Once the eggs start solidifying, (but not yet hard) toss potato in.  Maybe some salt.  Maybe not.
4. When the egg is done to your liking, ladle into freshly warmed flour tortillas and sprinkle some cheese on.
5. You can eat right away, but if you roll it up in some foil for a little bit it will transform into something quite magical.

Egg & Chorizo Breakfast Tacos

3 Eggs
1/3 cup raw chorizo
Flour tortillas

1. Cook the chorizo over medium heat until crumbly and done, slightly browned. Remove from skillet.
2. Drop the eggs in and do just like in the recipe above.  Add the cooked chorizo.
3. Put in Tortillas, eat.

Bean & Cheese Breakfast Tacos

(I’ll write this one up once I write up the refried bean recipe)

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Recipe: Texas Chorizo

In Australian butcher cases there is a cured meat sausage called chorizo, but sources tell me that its chorizo in the Portuguese style.

In Texas breakfast tacos, chorizo is a spicy, so chili-laden that it’s brick red, uncured fine mince.  Unmistakable for any other meat. It’s usually greasy as hell, too, but this recipe is not.

This recipe is from Robb Walsh’s The Tex-Mex Cookbook (and before that comes from a recipe published in the 70’s by El Chico Restaurants) with some small changes by me that take the recipe a little closer to what you’d get in an Austin taco stand.

It’s really really fast to make, especially if you just grab some pork mince from the butcher instead of cutting & grinding your own.  Robb recommends getting fatty boneless pork chops, cut into pieces, instead of mince, if you’re asking.

El Chico’s Chorizo +

I just dump everything into the food processor and process until its mixed well.  Then into the skillet or freezer.

Makes 1 1/4 cups

.5 K pork mince
4 tsp Real Chili Powder (or whatever you have labelled “chili/chilli powder”)
6 tsp spicy paprika
2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp ground cumin
4 T red wine vinegar
2 T vegetable oil
1/2 onion, chopped into quarters – you want about a half-cup in volume as onion size is relative.

If you’re feeling crazy you can dial up the chili powder or add cayenne to taste.

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Cookbook Review: The Tex-Mex Cookbook

The Tex-Mex Cookbook

As detailed elsewhere, I’m not super concerned about “authenticity”.  Good food, cooked with heart and shared with friends, can be high-brow or low-brow and it just doesn’t matter. Robb Walsh seems to share my views.  He’s a Houston-based food writer, was my favorite food editor at The Austin Chronicle, and *founded* the Austin Chronicle Hot Sauce Festival in 1991.

My friend Audra recommended this one to me, and this is the first cookbook I’ve ever read cover-to-cover.  It’s a narrative as well as a cookbook, and the story stretches from the San Antonio chili stands of the late 1800’s to today.  It traces the culinary roots of what’s now known as Tex-Mex through the border culture dynamism that exists anywhere two civilizations rub up next to eachother (and where one is not destroyed utterly).

And it’s anything but highbrow.  There are recipes for Chili Mac and Frito Pie in here.  Recipes from El Chico, Molina’s, Chuy’s, Ninfa’s, El Azteca, and Lady Bird Johnson.

It’s a good source for basics, in the book I finally found a chorizo recipe that tastes like I remember it, and the recipes for tamales, tortillas, salsas and migas are gold.

If you’re interested in cooking Mexican(ish) this would be a great addition to your cookbook library – and frankly the recipes and ingredients are a lot more accessible to gringos than the elaborate recipes in Kennedy or Bayless.  I love to read The Cuisines of Mexico, but I’m more likely to cook something found in The Tex-Mex Cookbook.

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Recipe: Salsa Charra

For Roasting:
2-3 lbs Roma tomatoes
6-12 fresh jalapeno peppers
2 bunches garlic

Other Ingredients
Salt, to taste

Roma tomatoes work best for this recipe. Cut and seeded, they have much more body and density than regular tomatoes. Their flat sides lend themselves to even cooking. You can use regular tomatoes, but they will not blacken as nicely and they may wilt to unmanageability on the grill.

Wash and rinse the veggies well, as always.

Cut and seed the tomatoes into quarters.

Wrap each bunch of garlic in a sheet of foil, trying to keep a pretty even covering of foil all around rather than a thin covering on one side and a big wad of foil on the other. Once again, even cooking is our goal.

Fire up the grill. OK, so I already know that those of you who don’t find cooking to be a grand adventure are shaking your heads. Too long, too much work! Well, that’s why it’s so good!

I tried to make this stuff in the oven broiler, but it just paled in comparison to the flavor you get on the grill.

When the coals are all going gray and putting out good heat, plop your jalapenos and garlic on the grill.

You’re shooting for blackened skin, which will make it easy to peel, and flesh that’s cooked, but not burnt. The pepper flesh is quite moist and won’t burn easily, so you can let it get pretty black on the outside, but be careful, because you can burn them if you leave them on too long. If your tongs can feel the flesh starting to wilt under the blackened skin, they’ve probably been in too long. I like to pull them out while they’re still firm.

You want them black ALL over, any green spots left will be hard to peel.

Pull the jalapenos off and drop them in a ziploc bag to steam. The garlic is typically not done yet so I leave it on while I cook the tomatoes too, usually on a cooler side of the grill, but still getting constant heat.

Drop the tomato slices in flesh side down first. This side can take a fair amount of cooking. Keep an eye on them. You actually want these to get good and blackened as well.

Note: keep rolling the garlic around on the grill so that all sides get evenly exposed to heat. I prop them up against the sides of the grill to help keep it from falling over.

You only want to flip the tomatoes once, so you want this side to get good and black before you flip. Once you flip, the tomato is partially cooked and has lost some firmness, so having the the skin side down for the final bit of cooking will help the peices keep their shape and keep them from sticking to the grill.

This is what you’re looking for: seriously. Regular tomatoes won’t blacken like this, so do your best if that’s what you’re using. The trick is to char them and pull them off before the tomato flesh completely breaks down and dribbles down through the grill into your charcoal.

When they’re done, that is pretty much blackened all over but just as they start getting really limp and losing their shape, toss ’em in a bowl. Grab the garlic too.

Now you have your bag of jalapenos, your roasted garlic, and your roasted tomatoes.

Peel the jalapenos under running water, and then halve and seed them, getting as much of the membrane as you can.

Now, toss everybody into the food processor.

I’m a pretty much “to taste” cook, so I can’t really tell you what the ration of tomatoes to garlic to peppers is, I do it differently every time. Depends on the strength and freshness of everything. I tend to start conservatively, and then add more peppers and garlic slowly so I don’t overdo it.

This is when you add the salt. To taste.

Chop it up so it’s chunky, no need to puree it.

Mmmmm.

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Brands

There was a specific set of questions that prompted me to start this blog.

And as it often does with me, it started with a whinge.

Me, on twitter, ironically noting that the bottom-of-the-barrel “Old El Paso” brand is somehow the brand that made it across the Pacific Ocean to litter the aisles of supermarkets in Australia.

A couple of people asked me: “Well, what else is there, Mr. Know-it-all?!!!” (paraphrased)

Some brands of Mexican foods: Hatch, La Costena, Goya, Valentina, HerdezSo these are the Mexican (and near-Mexican) brands I’ve seen in Oz.

Goya is a big, big Mexican brand, and in Texas there are sometimes whole aisles for Goya.  The product was usually good, and it had an advantage over its American competition in that it was usually 20%-30% cheaper.  It’s basic fare, common in Mexico, and so you won’t see the sleeping-Mexican-under-a-sombrero or sleeping-Mexican-near-a-burro that you’ll see on the Old El Paso labelling.  It doesn’t need it.  I like to keep a couple cans of Goya Black Beans and Pinto Beans on hand for when I’m too lazy to cook beans from dried or defrost them from the deep-freeze.  The Salsa Verde shown here is decent, too.  I can find Goya at Harris Farms, Fiji Mart, and Intercontentinental Foods.

La Costena is another popular brand, and it’s actually my favorite. If you see La Costena anything, get it.  Particularly their tomatillos are really well done  – commonly available other Mexican brands are often too salty or too watery.  Their salsas and jalapenos are very tasty too. I’ve seen La Costena at Fiji Mart (not reliably, though) and even at “Deli for Your Belly” at Glebe Point Road and Wigram.  The online sites in Oz have it sometimes.

Herdez is mostly known for their canned salsas, which are very nice, as canned salsas go. These salsas used to be really, really spicy, so be careful.  Good on Nachos.  Herdez I see at Fiji Market.  And MontereyFoods.com

Cholula is a very tasty hot sauce, as is Valentina.  Cholula is meant to be used sparingly, like Tabasco, but Valentina is more of a table sauce and can be used liberally.  Both are available at Fiji Market.

Hatch isn’t a Mexican brand at all.  It’s from Hatch, New Mexico, the universal locus of green chile goodness.  And not only that, I’ve never seen it here in Australia.  I put it here in case you DO see it.  Puh-leeeze let me know.  I surrender way too much of my baggage weight allowance on cans of this stuff when I travel back and forth to the US.

The So-So Brands
I’ve seen El Mexicana, Faraon, Embasa, and others here in Oz, but their stuff seems second-rate to me.  Too salty, poorer quality produce, etc.  Will do in a pinch, but if you get to pick, go La Costena.  You’ll notice I have some El Mexicana on the shelf there, but I haven’t tried one yet.  The site I ordered it from showed a picture of La Costena, but they shipped me El Mexicana.  Not interchangeable.  Not cool.

Can’t Resist
I was in College Station, Texas last month, and here is an aisle from the middle of the store: All Mexican Products!!!  (Note: Herdez salsa at $0.68 USD, going for about $3.50 AUD in Oz, easily a 500% increase!)

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Recipe: Real Chili (Chilli) Powder

  • 3 parts dried Ancho chillis (whole)
  • 1 part dried New Mexico chilis (whole)
  • 1 part dried Guajillo chiles (whole)
  • 1 part dried Pasilla chillies (whole)
  • 1 part whatever other dried chiles you have (whole)

Place your whole chiles onto a cooking sheet and bake at low temperature (around 100 degrees Celsius) until they dry out a bit, about 20-30 minutes.

Put on some latex gloves to protect your hands.

Now in a large bowl, crumble the chillis to remove seeds and stems.  Some of the peppers may be difficult to tear.  Gather up all the pieces of dark flesh (sans seeds and veins) and put back on the baking sheet.  Toast these pieces another 30 minutes.  Make sure they do not blacken or burn, you’re just roasting them a little.

Pull them out and let them cool.  They should now be mostly crumbly.  The thicker ancho chiles may be a little pliable still, but that’s ok.

In a coffee grinder (that you will NEVER EVER use for coffee again, so think about it, but it’s great to have a spice grinder!) or blender blend up the chunks of cooled, toasted chiles until you have a nice dark powder.

Seal tightly and refrigerate.  The Sydney house moth loves this stuff, so seal it well.

p.s. all these chillis available at www.montereyfoods.com.au

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Source: Mexico City Food Products

http://www.mexicocityfoodproducts.com.au/about.html

When we were trying to find sources for our first Australian Cinco de Mayo party, we had a critical issue looming in front of us: Where are we going to get tortillas?

Tortillas are the fundament of Mexican meals.  Especially corn tortillas.  In Austin if I found a place that made their own corn tortillas and served them fresh, I became a devotee for life.   In Sydney, your options for tortillas at the mainstream grocer are pretty grim.  You’ll find flour tortillas (sometimes called “wraps”, wtf?), but they are thin, characterless industrial products.  Servicable.  I buy the Bazaar brand.  But corn torts are harder to come by.  The one kind I find commonly at Coles and Woolies is crumbly and dry.

Courtney was picking up our bain marie (chafing dish) at the Complete Kitchenware on Parramatta Road, and as she was explaining what she was going to do with the gear, she mentioned we were making Mexican food.  The counter clerk asked if we’d met Luis Sada of Mexico City Food Products.  We hadn’t.

But we would!!!  Luis rocks!!!

Luis used to run a Mexican restaurant in Mortdale, and made his own corn tortillas and chips in the old fashioned way.  He found that people kept asking him where he got his chips, and when they learned he was making them, they wanted to buy them.  Soon he was supplying quite a few of his competitors with chips and tortillas as well.  He realised later on that he could focus on the chips and tortillas and do pretty well, as few people in Australia are making them completely from scratch like Luis.  He found a factory space in Mortdale and set up his production line.

Ok, so I have had a tortilla chip as it rolled off the conveyor belt seconds after being rolled, cut, fried and salted.  Awesome!

Luis makes his own masa (corn dough)  in the traditional way.   This is critical.  They soak corn in lime and water and grind it up into thick yellow dough. Fresh masa is the bomb.  If you are making tamales, or gorditas, or your own corn tortillas, you would prefer fresh masa rather than a powdered mix like Maseca (although I’ved used Maseca for ages, just not as good).

When finished the masa is placed into a hopper and Luis has a machine that rolls it out.  He can cut the flattened masa into triangle chips, round chips, or tortilla-sized rounds.  These then go through a spiral-shaped cooker that flips them halfway through.  If he’s making tortillas, this is the end of the process and they are bagged.  If it’s chipped, a fryer attachment is added onto the cooker, and the just-baked masa is then quickly fried and dumped onto another conveyer belt to cool and get salted.  Then they are gathered into bags for shipment or for packaging.

We’ve visited the factory in Mortdale a couple of times now, and Luis always takes the time to talk to us, even though he’s obviously very busy. The place smells great. 

If we’re entertaining, we’ll pick up a box or large bag of chips, and we’ll also buy some fresh masa to take home and freeze.  We’ll also grab 6 or 12 dozen corn tortillas to freeze as well.  These tortillas are really nice, some of the best I’ve had in Australia.  They don’t have that tire-tread look that the corn tortillas at Guzman y Gomez and Baja Cantina have, and I think they taste better.

I was hoping to visit Luis and get some fresh pics of him and the factory, but I’ve been slammed at work and unable to get away during business hours.  Maybe I can post a follow-up to this post at a later date.

You can buy Luis’ chips at Harris Farms, someone is packaging them for resale.  The bag label is a little underwhelming, but it looks like this.

Luis' Chips!

If you want tortillas, give Luis and Herve a call.  We usually arrange to meet them when they make a deliveries to Glebe and pick up our goodies.

Hasta!

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